Focaccia (fugassa in Genovese) derives from the Latin word focus, for “hearth.” Some believe that this flatbread originated with the Greeks or Etruscans, but focaccia genovese, as it’s known today, was first recorded in the 500s CE, used in churches during wedding ceremonies. There are conflicting sources about whether or not it was used solely for religious functions/celebrations, but it is known is that focaccia eating became so commonplace in church (beyond weddings and celebrations), that a bishop had to ban it during funeral services.
Focaccia genovese is most often eaten for breakfast, where the savory bread (ideally fresh and still warm) is dipped into a sweet cappuccino or cafe latte. However, focaccia is not reserved solely for breakfast, also making a good afternoon snack, easily eaten on the go, or an aperitivo, traditionally with Ligurian white wine. Some classicists believe that focaccia is the best aid to soothe teething children's sore gums. Some have adapted the original recipe to include lard in place of a portion of the olive oil, and while this not traditional, it does help keep the focaccia softer for longer. There are many varieties of focaccia, with styles and preferences varying throughout the different towns of Liguria, in addition to other types of focaccia throughout Italy.
An interesting side note: In the 1870s, a large group of separatist Genovese left Italy and emigrated to Argentina, looking to break free from King Umberto I of Savoy's rule. These Genovese claimed Boca, the city in Argentina where they landed, for their own; in 1882 they renamed it “Republica Independiente de la Boca” and hung the Genovese flag. They notified both Umberto I and the president of the republic of Argentina by means of a formal document, but when the Argentinean president and General Julio Argentino Roca intervened, the Genovese were forced to lower the Genovese flag and re-join the country of Argentina. Even so, by 1895 Boca had a population of approximately 38,000, of which only about 2,500 were Spanish immigrants. In Boca, focaccia is still quite popular, referred to by its Genovese name “fugassa,” or in Spanish as “hogaza.”