Although polpettone typically means a meatloaf-like dish in many regions of Italy, in Liguria it refers to this vegetable casserole, formed from breadcrumbs, green beans and potatoes (passed through a ricer), with the addition of parmigiano reggiano, eggs, olive oil, garlic, salt, and herbs. Some versions of polpettone also include dried mushrooms. The key herb providing polpettone’s signature flavor is marjoram. It is an ancient dish, historically a peasant meal; in the Middle Ages it was called scarbassa, which was the name of the wicker baskets brought into the fields to collect vegetables during harvesting. The Genovese also called it “Sčiattamàiu,” which literally means “husband-bursting” (“sciatta marito”). What this refers to unclear, although it may be a joking reference to indigestion caused by the heavy, garlicky dish.
The modern polpettone starts with a thin bottom layer of breadcrumbs, which is then topped with a mixture of a mash of potatoes and green beans (both boiled prior to ricing/mashing), sauteed garlic, marjoram and parsley. Once these sauteed spices cool, they are added to eggs and grated cheese and well mixed. These are then added to the potato and green bean mash, layered on top of the breadcrumbs, with the top sprinkled with more breadcrumbs and coated with olive oil. A fork is run across the top to make small, shallow valleys for the oil, and it is baked until the top is crispy. It can be eaten hot, at room temperature, or cold, and is even better the next day, after the flavors have melded. The top and bottom are crunchy, while the inside is soft and starchy, incredibly delicious for such a simple dish.