Originating in Veracruz, the coctel is a sort of super shrimp cocktail; instead of four rim-draped crustaceans chilling in a bath of tomato sauce, you get them floating in a thick, flavorful broth of tomato, lime, onion, hot sauce and cilantro. These are often supplemented with other seafood (conch, squid, octopus, oysters), avocado and crushed saltines, eaten from a large glass like an ice cream sundae. On Isla and throughout Mexico, these light dishes are the domain of the cocteleria, casual seafood joints which also serve a variety of other option. Among these are ceviche – the classic preparation of lime-cured raw fish, a bit milder here than in many spicy South American iterations - and aguachile , it’s hotter, crunchier cousin. The waterfront Avenida Rueda Medina is dotted with these rustic places, perhaps none better than Cocteleria Justicia Social, whose name is as much of a mouthful as its massive plates of ceviche. Aside from an unbeatable view and some fantastic murals, it also has a great origin story, with some of the local fisherman forming a group to sell and distribute their own seafood cooperatively, sloughing off the control of exploitative wholesalers. The restaurant is their prime venue, a huge patio spot anchored by a burbling tank of lobsters. I didn’t order one, having heard less-than-great things about the comparability of puny, warm-water rock lobsters to Maine-sourced monsters, and missed the apparently common sight of employees filling the tank with fresh catch from nearby traps. It's also worth noting that neither of the two coctels consumed on this trip were as delicious as those prepared by the vaunted Coctel Man of Roosevelt Ave, although his version might have had an unfair advantage. Fresh seafood tastes fantastic on the beach, but it’s even more exciting when purchased on the corner on a cold Queens day.
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The coded language of snacks, sandwiches and seasonings, in NYC and beyond.
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