Joe DiStefano's Chopsticks and Marrow is an invaluable resource for New York City eating, especially for those seeking to comprehend the amazing, globe-spanning bounty of the borough of Queens. Great news, then, that he's responsible for selecting the vendors at the new Queens branch of the Smorgasburg empire, with a selection of local specialists that goes beyond the market’s usual roster of comfort-food dealers and cutesy appropriationists. On a recent visit I strolled around the enclosed cement area near MOMA PS1, marveling at the value of the chicken satay from Celebes Bakar (four sizable sticks for $5, sadly unphotographed) and the vocal range and carnival barker insistence of the guy hawking Balut. I demurred from trying this Filipino specialty, in which fertilized duck eggs are seasoned with a chili, garlic and vinegar broth. Instead I opted for the safer Kinunot Na Pagi (flaked stingray), prepared in a style specific to the country’s coastline-blessed Bicol region. Presented by Woodside restaurant Papa’s Kitchen in sandwich form, it took on the airy qualities of a good lobster roll, coconut-kissed meat swaddled in a section of soft baguette, topped with a few sprigs of Moringa, a green that’s of late been minted as the newest superfood. Equally interesting was the hallaca, an open-faced, tamale-like assemblage, purchased from the Ecuadorian-focused Son Foods, which also offers beef tongue tacos and empanadas. This log of stuffed masa was strangely sweet and pale in color, which led me to wonder if yuca was being employed (this is the case in the Puerto Rican hallaca, although who knows here) or if sugar had found its way into the mix. In terms of texture it was reminiscent of a recent meal of Pastel de Choclo prepared by some Chilean friends. The hallaca is also a reminder of the innovative use of corn across the entirety of The Andes; this particular preparation appears in different iterations all over the region and beyond, also sharing some DNA (and popularity as a Yuletide treat) with Caribbean pasteles, Queens Smorgasburg, meanwhile, holds steady at its current home (43-29 Crescent Street) until October 31.
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